Coleman Spas Hot Tub Error Codes

Hey Guys and Gals, I'm really hoping someone here can help me as I'm at a total loss. I recently moved into a new rental home and there is a nice 2006 Spa Coleman Hot Tub outback. It looks brand new. The owner of the property indicated it wasn't working but he would spend up to 200 on parts if I did the work to which I agreed to see if we can get it going.

• Error Codes For Hot Tubs
• Coleman Hot Tub E02 Error

Error Codes For Hot Tubs

Coleman Spa Manuals, Spa Parts for All Spa Brands, Spa Jets, Spa Troubleshooting. I have a 10+ yr old Coleman spa that started acting up this summer. It was about the time that it started to get really hot here, and at the end of.

Below are some of the most common spa side error codes and there possible causes. For the complete list of error codes click here. For further troubleshooting. Q&A about spa and hot tub error codes and fault messages. I have a Coleman Horizon Series 400 spa that started the above message and no heat.

So first off it hasn't ran in about a year. The water in the tub is stone cold maybe 40 some degrees. When you power on the breaker the tub goes through what appears to be a self check and flashes 100 then 21 then 114 then 240 and then goes direct to an OHH (Overheat Code). I have verified DIP Switch 3 is on and all others are off as shown on the panel diagram.

My immediate thought was one of the M7 sensors on the inline Balboa heater were bad. After pricing the 2 sensors I decided to just replace the entire heater with both sensors. The new heater cam today and I installed with both new M7 sensors it just fine with no issues and sure enough it still loads to the OHH screen. I am completely locked out of the panel all it will display is OHH and there is no function. Here are a few more factors that may help someone with more knowledge than me come to a conclusion.

1.) I can't find a rest button anywhere other than the GFCI Reset on the breaker panel. I have looked on the board and all along the power in cord.

Am I Missing Something? 1A.) I have hosed out the filter. 2.) When I leave the power to the tub even though the OHH remains on the tub does go into its standard cycle and powers on jets to circulate water every 15 minutes. 3.) If I switch on DIP Switch 10 I get message CFE then A10.

Which I understand is a programing mode for the factory and not supposed to be used by the end user. I didn't mess with it to screw up programing but did this to verify the board is in fact communicating with the topside panel.

Coleman Hot Tub E02 Error

In my logic this says the board is working at least somewhat. 4.) Could it be the sensor inside the tub? That will be a bear to change the way its on the tub so I'm hoping to stay away from that if it's not the likely culprit. At the end of the day it's not my hot tub but I have a 2 year lease here and am willing to spend a few bucks to get it going. The one local spa place here charges 200 just to come out and have a look and then 150 per hour which I can't afford for just a diagnostic! I'd love to hear if you've ever experienced this or something similar and what the fix was.

Happy New Year Everyone! I'm not sure what you're referring to as 'the other sensor.' Older Coleman tubs didn't use M7 packs, and homeowners and/or repair people will generally replace an old malfunctioning pack with a modern M7 retrokit, so if you see a sensor in a small plastic well it's probably disconnected from the original configuration and the repairman left it in place because he didn't want to plug the hole.

Given your description, I'm almost positive it's a circuit board issue. An M7 pack goes through a 4-7 minute priming mode before it turns on the heater. If you're going directly from displaying software codes to an OHH error, there is a logic issue in the board. If their was a water flow condition, the OHH wouldn't show up for at least 5 minutes. However, assuming you're not using a stopwatch and the times you're telling us aren't accurate: OHH is caused by either bad water flow or a circuit board malfunction.

Generally bad water flow, although I have seen a few flaky PCB's over the years. The two sensors in the M7 heater, which are identical, work together.

If one of them reports a temperature over 118 degrees, you're going to get an OHH error. When the error first occurs, put your hand on the heater. If so, that means the heater kicked on and there was no water to dissipate the heat. If it's cold, the circuit board is probably reading the sensors wrong. If the heater is not hot: Check the sensor connections on the circuit board. They sometimes get dirty, which affects the conductivity, which changes the resistance of the wire, which will give a faulty temperature reading. A common issue is white deposits on the pins.

WITH THE POWER OFF, I use a dental pick to scrape the pins till they are shiny. If the connection is good, the heater isn't hot and water is flowing, the circuit board is probably the problem. If the heater is hot, then you have a water flow problem: The first thing to do is try running the tub without the filter in place. There could be minerals dissolved in the paper that you can't see which are obstructing your water flow. Remove the filter, turn off the power, turn it on again. You said the jets cycle on every 15 minutes. There are probably 2 or 3 pumps in there.

Is pump # 1, the one that is connected to the heater, operating? Check for an air lock, which frequently happens after filling and is a common cause of OHH errors. If you filled the tub by putting your hose in the footwell instead of the filter, that's likely an issue.

In answer to your other question, there is no reset button on the tub, it is designed to operate continuously. You have to turn off the breaker and then turn it on again to reset it.

Why is my spa not heating? What does LF mean?

This is a very common problem, and fortunately there are some simple solutions. Luckily, your spa may be smarter than a fifth grader. It can sense when there is a reduction of water flow passing through the heating system.

When this reduction of water flow happens, your spa is designed to shut down the heating system, protecting itself from overheating or burning up altogether. The most common culprit is a dirty and clogged filter element.

To troubleshoot this, take the filter(s) out of your spa completely. Be sure there is nothing floating in the spa water that could get pulled into the plumbing, i.e. Leaves, scumballs, etc. Turn the breaker to the spa OFF, and then cycle it back ON. Keep your filters out of the spa, and determine whether the LF error code has disappeared.

If it has, close the spa lid and check back in a couple of hours to see if the spa has heated. If the dirty filter(s) are returned to the spa, the condition will repeat itself. Either replace the spa filters with brand new ones, or clean your existing filters with a filter and cartridge cleaner from your local spa store. Rinsing the filters with just water isn't going to do it. Have you just refilled your spa?

If the spa was working fine prior to a drain and refill, but now it isn't, chances are you have an air-lock. If your spa is equipped with a priming mode, turn the breaker OFF and ON.

This may do the trick. If not, you must open the access panel on the spa, and locate the correct pump. Some spas have independant circulating pumps, and some use the jet pump on low speed to circulate and heat the water. If you aren't sure what pump it is, try to see if there is a pump that is just humming. Chances are, that is the one.

The air must be bled out of that pump by the drain plug or by loosening the PVC union that connects to it. The spa should be powered down before you loosen any pump plugs or unions.

Once the air is let out of the pump, it will operate correctly. Thus the LF error code should not appear once the spa is powered back ON. Is your water level low? Top the spa off to correct level, and cycle the spa OFF/ON. Is there a screen in your spa that hot water comes out of?

If your spa is equipped with a circulating pump, there is a screen-like fitting in your hot tub that bubbles and/or hot water comes out of. Sometimes solids, leaves, hair, etc. Can clog this return fitting. They can be removed and cleaned, and should be each time you drain your spa. There is no problem removing this screen when the spa is filled.

Grab your suit and jump in! Depending on the make of your spa, you may need a screwdriver. Does your spa have a pressure switch? Some older spas, and even some new ones have pressure switches. They are usually 1-2 inches in diameter, round, and attached in some fashion to your heater. They may have 2 plastic 'flags' that protect some wire connectors. If all else has failed, and your spa is equipped with one of these troublesome components, you probably need a new one.

These suggestions will solve 99 percent of all LF issues. If you have any other questions or problems, please call us at 734-668-7665. Very helpful thread!

I still need help! I keep getting a LF, DR, or HFL reading Equipment: - Balboa M7 heating unit (brand new, i just replaced). 2 pumps - Waterways Executive 56, pump 1 seems to be working on high & low, pump 2 is working. I have: - allowed for priming to take place - removed filters during this process to make sure they aren't the culprit - tried addressing a possible air lock (however pumps are moving water). Addressed air lock possibility at, heater, pump1 & pump2 & spa drain. Balboa M7s don't have a pressure sensor. I am out of ideas.

I am reading about the heater relay? Anyone have pointers?